Tag: door installation

How to Measure a Prehung Door


Do You Know How To Measure a Prehung Door?

We’ll go over everything you need to measure on your next replacement project.


In this article, we want to go over the different ways you can measure a prehung door. Depending on the application, you’ll need to know how and what to measure so you can order the correct replacement door from the Lumberyard.

How To Measure a Prehung Door Interior

Prehung Door Measurement Terms:

Door Handing –

First, if you’re planning to measure a prehung door yourself, you’ll need to know how to tell what the “handing” or “swing” of the door is. The best way we’ve found is to put your nose to the hinge pins, (with the door shut) and see which of your hands can grab the door handle. Since the hinge pins are only visible from one side of the door (interior or exterior,) it allows for a fool-proof way of determining swing. The door in the picture would be called a LH inswing.

Note: Exterior doors can also be specified as inswing or outswing – essentially, does the door swing into the room or out to the exterior?

Slab Size –

Next, the most common way to measure a prehung door is to call out the measurements of the door slab only (translated into lineal feet.) Look at the door in the example picture above – the Blue measurements are the door slab size. This door would be called out as a 3068 (3’ x 6’8”) when ordering a new prehung unit for replacement.

Rough Opening (RO) –

Another industry standard is to remove the interior or exterior casing and measure the 2×4 stud framing or “Rough Opening” (RO). Back to our example picture – the Orange measurements show the RO of this door at 39” x 82 ½”. (Industry standard is to call out the width before the height when ordering a door or window.)

Frame Size –

Some manufacturers allow you to order a door by “Frame Size” or the outside measurement of the door jamb assembly. This allows for an exact fit when trying to save interior and exterior casings. The Red measurements show the door in the example has a frame size of 38” x 82”.

How To Measure a Prehung Door Exterior

Outside Measurement of Exterior Casing (OSM) –

Finally, if you’re trying to replace an exterior door and save the existing siding, you’ll want to measure by what’s called the “Outside Measurement of Exterior Casing (OSM). You’ll also need to measure and specify the width of the existing Brickmolding or casing. This will give you an exact replacement that fits into the existing siding and RO. The Green measurements above show this example door has an OSM of 41” x 83 ½” with 2” Brickmolding.

These terms are hard to differentiate at first, but by gaining a good understanding of how to properly measure your next door – you can avoid costly mistakes caused by miss-orders.

DID YOU LIKE THIS ARTICLE?

DID YOU LIKE THIS ARTICLE?

Here are some more you might be interested in! We’ve taken everything we’ve learned about door installation and wrote it down for your use

Read more

The Door Is Installed Level & Plumb, but it still doesn’t work!


Has this ever happened to you?

We Can Help!


You’ve tried to do everything right, taking your time to find level & plumb perfectly.  Even shimming properly at each hinge location, but no matter what you try – the door frame will not line up correctly with the slab.  (learn some shimming tricks here)

Let’s trouble shoot some of the possible causes below:

1.  The door slab is level, but the sill is not

This is one of the most common issues when you’re facing the problem the door being installed level & plumb, but it still doesn’t work.  Look at the picture below to get a better idea of what’s going on here. 

picture-correct-door-sill-vs-an-incorrect-door-sill

A level sill is the foundation for a good door installation

As you can see, even if the door is level & plumb – if the sill isn’t, you will have a hard time getting your reveals to line up correctly.  (learn more about getting a level sill here)

2.  The door’s frame legs are not installed true with one another

Here is a picture of another trouble-spot that we’ve seen on job-sites.

Doors 101 - True

Note how the door legs don’t align with one another

It is possible to have a door slab level & plumb and one side of the door frame level & plumb. But if the other side of the door frame isn’t true with its partner – the door slab can appear warped because it will pop-out from the frame in one corner.  (you can learn more about what installing a door true means here)

3.  One of the door’s components was manufactured incorrectly

Even though it’s rare and door manufacturer’s try very hard to produce every unit correctly, it is possible for a part to be made incorrectly and find its way into the field.  Fortunately, you can check that your door was made correctly by measuring both frame legs to make sure they match and both head and sill to make sure you have a matching pair.  As for the spacing between the door and frame (usually called the reveal) it is recommended that there is at least 1/8” on both the Strike and Head sides of the door and 3/32″ on the hinge side of the door.  We’ve put together a diagram below to help explain this.

Proper reveals are required to maintain Energy STAR® ratings on exterior doors

4.  The door slab is warped

Again, this is rare for a new door. But it is possible for the door slab to warp before it has been installed.  If this has happened, the door will pop-out from the frame in one corner as mentioned above. It will also not match with its frame.  An easy way to test for this is to use a string pulled tight from the top of the bottom of the door corners. (as shown in the picture below) If the gap is larger than ⅜” from the string to the door, it is warped.

DID YOU LIKE THIS ARTICLE?

DID YOU LIKE THIS ARTICLE?

Here are some more you might be interested in! We’ve taken everything we’ve learned about door installation and wrote it down for your use

Read more

Level Plumb Square & True. What do they Mean?


What do they really mean?

Our clear-cut explanation of Level Plumb Square & True.


We hear these words used all the time, but have you ever taken the time to really think about what they mean?  Equally important, these terms can have a major impact on your next door or window installation.  Take a read below to make sure your fenestration terminology is up to par.

Doors 101 - Level

1.  LEVEL

The best way to describe LEVEL is to imagine a straight line that is perfectly horizontal.  Take a look at the picture above, the dotted green line represents LEVEL.  If a door or window is installed out of LEVEL, it will tend to rub on the jamb and it will be hard to get the reveal (spacing between the door and frame) to line up.  If the reveals don’t line up, the sash will not seat up properly with the weather-strip seals.  As a result, you risk losing the Energy STAR rating your door or window came with.

Doors 101 - Plumb

2.  PLUMB

To visualize what PLUMB represents, look at the dashed green line above.  PLUMB is the term used to refer to a perfectly vertical line, thus why the clever tool used to find PLUMB is called a plumb-bob.  If a door or window is installed out of PLUMB, it will cause a host of issues.  Such as:  sagging open in the corner, unwanted opening or closing doors, and binding during operating.

Doors 101 - Square

3. SQUARE

The definition of SQUARE is a 90 degree corner.  A speed square, framing square, and T squares are all good examples of tools used to find SQUARE on a jobsite.  Installing a door or window SQUARE involves being both LEVEL & PLUMB at the same time.  This is important to prevent: binding during operation, springing open on the corners and again to insure proper sealing between the sash and frame.  Take a look above for a visual explanation of SQUARE.

Doors 101 - True

4. TRUE

By far, the most forgotten term of a door installation.  TRUE represents being SQUARE on both the LEVEL & PLUMB axis at the same time on all sides of the unit being installed.  The picture above describes TRUE.  A door or window can be installed perfectly LEVEL, PLUMB & SQUARE on one side, but if the other side’s aren’t LEVEL, PLUMB & SQUARE, the unit will not be TRUE and will create many of the problems mentioned above.

These terms are hard to differentiate at first, but by gaining a good understanding of LEVEL, PLUMB, SQUARE & TRUE you are sure to get better results out of your next installation.

DID YOU LIKE THIS ARTICLE?

DID YOU LIKE THIS ARTICLE?

Here are some more you might be interested in! We’ve taken everything we’ve learned about door installation and wrote it down for your use

Read more

5 Cool Tools that can help with your next Door Installation


you might want to see these.

Our pick of 5 cool tools to help with your next door installation.


Below are 5 of the most ingenious tools we’ve seen when it comes to door installation. Take a quick look below to see if you could use any of these!

5 Cool Tools For Door Installation - Winbag

 

#1. Winbag™ USA

First on our list of cool tools, The Winbag acts as a reusable, inflatable shim. You simply insert it in-between the components you wish to shim and then as Arnold would say, you “Pump it Up!” The Winbag has an impressive shimming range from 3/32″ – 2″ and can lift up to 300lbs. Retailing for around $20, we think this is a must have for any handyman’s tool bag. Learn more at Winbag™ USA.

 

5 Cool Tools For Door Installation - Vacuum Cup

 

 

#2. Heavy Duty Vacuum Cups

These are great for getting a grip on heavy door slabs that would otherwise be difficult to handle. Basically a strong suction cup with a handle, these clever cups come in 8″ – 10″ sizes and can lift from 100lbs all the way up to 300lbs securely. Depending on what you want to spend, you can find a good selection of vacuum cups ranging from $40 up to $100 at WGS Online.

 

5 Cool Tools For Door Installation - Hinge Tweaker

 

#3. The Hinge Tweaker™

Over time, heavy doors tend to sag and need some adjusting, this company has come up with a unique solution that almost anyone can tackle. By “tweaking” the hinges back and forth, you can easily adjust them back to their original position. Your commercial doors will thank you and for less than $85 you can get them swinging like brand new! Learn more about this cool tool at the Hinge Tweaker™ website.

 

5 Cool Tools For Door Installation - CHEATAH door level

 

#4. CHEATAH™ door level

Another cool tool, the CHEATAH door level helps anyone easily install a prehung door.  The CHEATAH can help by showing Level & Plumb simultaneously.  Plus the built-in SHIMPADS™ help to create perfect reveals between the door and frame. This results in improved installation and function of doors, resulting in fewer warranty callbacks.  You can buy the CHEATAH™ door level here.

 

5 Cool Tools For Door Installation - Trim Guage

 

#5. Trim Gauge™

For those of us who are perfectionists, the Trim Gauge can be a best friend when it comes to getting the perfect reveal on your next trim installation. Designed to set the spacing between the trim and the door frame, for less than $30 you can keep all of your trim jobs spot on. Get yours at the Trim Guage™ website

 

DID YOU LIKE THIS ARTICLE?

DID YOU LIKE THIS ARTICLE?

Here are some more you might be interested in! We’ve taken everything we’ve learned about door installation and wrote it down for your use

Read more

The Ups and Downs of a Door Shim


a door shim has a top?

The Ups and Downs of a Door Shim


The pitch of the door shim is important!

Did you know that door shims have a top and a bottom, and that if you put them in the wrong way they don’t work? Let’s take a look at this.

A Shim Has A Taper for a Reason

To start, we’ll call the thicker portion of the shim the top and the thinner end the bottom.  The taper this creates is designed not only to help make up various gaps when combined with another shim, but it also sets the “projection” of the door. Take a look at the picture below.

All bound up?

Have you ever tried to shut a door that feels like it is binding when you try to close it the last few inches? More than likely, this was caused by putting the shims in the wrong direction creating the bad projection and the door hinges to bind.

The Taper Helps the Door to Swing One Way or the Other

By correctly placing a shim at each hinge, you will help the door easily close all the way. It’s all about the top and bottom when it comes to a door shim.

DID YOU LIKE THIS ARTICLE?

DID YOU LIKE THIS ARTICLE?

Here are some more you might be interested in! We’ve taken everything we’ve learned about door installation and wrote it down for your use

Read more

5 Mistakes You Might be Making Installing a Door


we’ve been there too.

Our pick of the top 5 most common door installation mistakes


Below are 5 of the most common problems seen when it comes to installing a door. Take a look below to see if you’ve ever struggled with any of these!

1.  Hanging the door parallel to the wall, even if it is out of level 

If the wall is out of plumb, it’s hard to install a door correctly and it may tend to swing open or closed. If the wall is plumb but the door frame is not, the door frame may need to be adjusted to ensure an even reveal on each side of the door. If the walls on either side are not parallel, extra time may be needed during shimming to ensure the best results.

Don’t Expect Good Results if you Don’t Start Right.

2.  Using the wrong hinge screws or over-tightening them

The right screws, or 3 ½” screws, keep the door stable over time. Too small of screws can allow the door to migrate over time, which can cause it to rub or scrape on the floor or not shut at all. When the screws have been tightened improperly, the door will experience uneven tension and will eventually warp.

Go Slow and Steady.

3. Placing shims improperly or backwards

When installing a door, thick end of the shim should face the door’s hinge pin. This helps it swing shut properly. If the shims have been installed backwards, the door will begin to resist before it is completely shut. Putting door shims in backwards can also be a large contributing factor to a door that swings open or shut on it’s own. Read more about proper shimming techniques here: The Ups and Downs of a Door Shim.

Proper Shimming is Important.

4. Failing to check the reveals

As the industries top cause of warped doors, uneven reveals can cause significant long-term problems with a door. The reveals must be parallel to ensure proper operation and a long life for the door. If the reveals are uneven, the door will build up pressure over time and warp as the moisture level changes. If a door is hanging with even tension across all three hinges, it will operate properly for years to come.

EnergySTAR Ratings can be Voided by Improper Reveals.

5. Not starting with a level sill

As seen in the picture below, by starting without a level sill, it’s practically impossible to end up with a good result to your door installation.  The sill is the door’s foundation, if it is out of level; the problems compound over the height of the door and become much more difficult to troubleshoot. Read more about proper level sill here: How Important is a Level Sill?

Installing a door with a level sill is like building a house on a level foundation, start right to end right.

picture-correct-door-sill-vs-an-incorrect-door-sill

 

DID YOU LIKE THIS ARTICLE?

DID YOU LIKE THIS ARTICLE?

Here are some more you might be interested in! We’ve taken everything we’ve learned about door installation and wrote it down for your use

Read more

JENTRA™

794 32nd Ave NW
Backus, MN 56435
(855) 947-4300
sales@jentratools.com

Mon-Sat: 8am - 5pm

Sign up to Our Newsletter
and Never Miss a Deal


Copyright 2021 JENTRA™. All Rights Reserved.  Tools are sold under US Patents 8,677,636 and 9,482,016.