What’s a door level?

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A door level attaches to the door slab to show level and plumb during installation. It also spaces out the door slab in its frame.

(And why you’ll never want to install a door without one again!)

In this article, we’re going to walk through what it takes to install a prehung door properly with clear bullet points to lead the way.  We’ll also give a few tips and a tool at the end to make the process a lot easier.  Follow along below, and please feel free to reach out to us with any questions that may come up – we’re here to help!

What’s the problem with using a traditional 6’ handheld level?

There’s nothing wrong with a good 6′ handheld level, but it can be cumbersome to use one for door installation.

Let’s start at the beginning – There are 4 key goals when you’re installing a door. Getting any one of these wrong can result with the door not working properly or even needing to be replaced due to warping.

A correctly installed door needs to be:   

LEVEL

The best way to describe LEVEL is to imagine a straight line that is perfectly horizontal. Take a look at the picture above, the dotted green line represents LEVEL.

PLUMB

To visualize what PLUMB represents, look at the dashed green line above. PLUMB is the term used to refer to a perfectly vertical line.

SQUARE

The definition of SQUARE is a 90 degree corner. A speed square, framing square, and T squares are all good examples of tools used to find SQUARE on a jobsite.

TRUE

The picture above describes TRUE. A door or window can be installed perfectly LEVEL, PLUMB & SQUARE on one side, but if the other side’s aren’t LEVEL, PLUMB & SQUARE, the unit will not be TRUE.

While these concepts are easy to talk about and understand, it can be very hard to achieve all 4 at once during the actual door installation. (Click here if you want to learn more about Level, Plumb, True & Square)  

Here are a few factors that make installing a door difficult –

  1. If you’re using a traditional 6’ level, you can only read Level or Plumb, not both at the same time.  When you try to move the door into Level, you’ll often move it out of Plumb or visa versa.  I’ve literally spent hours in the past trying to get a door right, only to end in frustration! 
  2. The door slab is what needs to hang Level & Plumb.  If it’s out either way, the weight of the door will cause it to swing open or closed on its own.  You can probably think of a door in your house that does this – and now you know why.  Too many people focus on the door jamb, but it’s the door slab that counts!
  3. The door jamb needs to be spaced consistently around the door slab – (precisely 3/32” on the strike and top sides & 1/16” on the hinge side.)  Again, this is easy to say but can be very hard to do using a traditional 6’ handheld level.

Keep these tips in mind for your next door install:

  1. Starting with a level sill – The sill is the bottom of a door and it being level and flat is the corner stone of any good door installation.  It’ very important that the floor space that the door is going to be sitting on is completely level and flat before starting on the door installation.  If it’s not, you need to fix it!  Here’s an article about how to level the floor using common building materials.
  2. Use screws, but don’t overtighten them – You’ll want to use screws, not nails when installing a prehung door.  Nails will pull out over time with use, causing the door frame to move and not work correctly.  Just be careful not to overtighten the screws.  If you put too much torque on the screw, it will pull the jamb out of level or plumb and give you trouble.  A nice positive connection holding the door shim is all you need.
  3. Shimming – Every door needs to be shimmed during installation.  The shims create a firm hold between the door jamb and the wall.  Shims are essential in preventing the door from moving over time.   Here’s a whole article about properly shimming a door and the various shims on the market.

When you install a door, It's important to shim it properly.

How does a door level make it easier?

If you haven’t heard of a door level – don’t worry, you’re not alone.  It’s a fairly new innovation, but it can be a great time and frustration saver when it comes to installing a prehung door.  

Here’s how a door level helps during installation – 

  1. A door level attaches onto the door slab to show Level and Plumb at the same time – this frees up both of your hands to work.  You can watch level and plumb change as you install the door, getting it perfect from start to finish. 
  2. A door level also creates the proper spacing between the door slab and its frame.  Acting as an assembly guide during the shimming process.  Every door gets installed with the same consistent reveals – 3/32” on the strike and top sides & 1/16” on the hinge side.  
  3. A door level helps to hold the door assembly true and square during installation.  Its spacers help to prevent the door from racking back and forth by locking the door slab into its frame. 

Where can you buy a door level?

You’ve come to the right place, JENTRA is the creator of the door level.  We’ve used our same door installation knowledge from above to develop the CHEATAH door level.  We’ve sold almost 10,000 CHEATAH door levels to date, so hurry up and get yours!

In stores – Here’s a map of local stores where you can purchase our CHEATAH door level.  We are not currently in any of the large box stores.

Online store – Click here to purchase the CHEATAH door level from our online store.

Thanks for reading and please be sure to reach out to us with any questions that may come up! Happy Door Installations!

My New Windows Have Water on Them!

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My New Windows Have Water on Them!

Don’t panic – this is a very common problem in new homes and it’s easily solved once you understand what the root cause is.

Believe it or not, the new window is likely not to blame – let’s learn why:

CON-DEN-SA-TION

The definition: water which collects as droplets on a cold surface when humid air comes in contact with it.

 

Condensation showing on the glass and metal components of a window on a cold winter day.

 

In simple terms, condensation is the exact opposite of evaporation. Condensation happens when the air is cooled to its dew point or becomes too saturated to hold any more water.

Since windows are typically the coldest portion of the building envelope – condensation tends to appear on window and door glass first.

DID YOU KNOW: Even the best double-glazed, insulated windows max-out with an R-Value equivalent of 4 (U-Value of .25.)

 

INTERIOR HUMIDITY LEVEL + LOWER GLASS TEMPERATURE
= AMOUNT OF CONDENSATION

 

ON A COLD WINTER DAY: moisture condensates on glass with a surface temperature of < 40° combined with interior humidity levels > 30%. (APPROXIMATE)

Condensation shows at the bottom of the glass-pack, because that’s where the cold settles.  (hot-air rises, cold-air drops)

 

As you can see in the illustration above, window condensation is dependent on how low the interior glass temperature gets – combined with how high the interior humidity level is.

As the exterior temperature drops, the interior humidity level needs to drop with it to prevent condensation from forming on the glass.

 

Modern Homes Have Vapor Barriers

 

A vapor barrier is a layer of poly (plastic) sheeting that is installed and sealed underneath of the sheetrock in your home to prevent energy loss. Vapor barriers do a great job of saving energy, but their down-side is trapping excessive moisture inside of the home.

Interior moisture comes from taking showers, cooking and overall living and breathing in the home.

 

INTERIOR WINDOW GLASS SURFACE TEMPERATURES MAKE A DIFFERENCE

 

Let’s take a look at how various glass options compare when it comes to the window’s interior glass surface temperature. (APPROXIMATE)

A window’s interior glass surface temperature can be as important as the window’s U-Value depending on the application

 

STANDARD DUAL PANE

As you can see in the picture, double-glazed insulated glass’s surface temperature can get as low as 40° on a cold day. This is cold enough to cause condensation with high interior humidity.

STANDARD TRIPLE PANE

Standard, insulated triple-glazed is a step-up from this – triple glazed glass creates another thermal-break point and carries a higher interior glass temperature than dual glazed with the same exterior temperature in place.

1-1/4” TRIPLE PANE

The best the industry has to offer – 1-.” thick triple glazed glass not only creates this second thermal break, but contains almost double the amount of insulation (Argon) over a standard unit. This again helps to warm-up the interior glass temperature and save money!

 

Don’t Close the Blinds all of the Way

 

When you pull your curtains all of the way closed, you insulate the window from the warm interior air. This allows the cold exterior air to “win the battle” and cool the glass temperature down past its dew point. You will cause extreme condensation/frost build-up on a window by doing this on a cold day.

If you want to use window coverings, be sure the get ones that allow for ventilation and do not close them all of the way shut. Leave window coverings open a few inches at the bottom and top to allow for air circulation.

 

GLASS CONDENSATION POINTS (APPROXIMATE)

 

Let’s take a look at how various glass options compare when it comes to the window’s interior glass condensation points. (APPROXIMATE)

High-Humidity Homes are NOT Energy Efficient

 

Water takes a lot of energy to keep up to temperature. Think about boiling water on the stove or pouring a hot bath – if the heat source is taken away, the water cools-off rapidly. Excessive interior humidity will cause your furnace to run more than it should – costing you money!

DID YOU KNOW:  If you have a vapor barrier installed, you need to have an air exchange system installed or run a dehumidifier to help you control the interior humidity levels on colder days.

 

HIGH INTERIOR HUMIDITY CAUSES OTHER PROBLEMS

 

Windows are often called the “Canary in the Coal-Mine” for your new home.

If moisture is showing on your windows or doors, it is also happening in places that you cannot see – like in the attic or behind the walls. Excessive interior humidity will cause mold and mildew to form in your brand-new home!

 

The First Year After Construction is the Worst for Condensation

 

All of the materials that were used to build your new home are drying out. Imagine all of the water that was used in the concrete, paint, sheetrock, etc. and all of it needs to work it’s way out of your new home. It’s not uncommon to have window condensation during this first year as things are drying.

 

This Didn’t Happen at my Old House

 

Older houses without vapor barriers are able to “breathe” and let the interior moisture escape to the exterior. As the exterior temperature drops, so does the exterior humidity level. After all, winter is known for being “very dry.”

Older homes were simply “drier” than modern homes and there was never enough interior humidity to show on the glass. Also, modern windows are tighter than their older-drafty cousins – this causes new windows to trap the interior moisture, instead of letting it escape like before.

 

NOW YOU KNOW!  Now that you’ve learned how condensation happens on a cold surface combined with interior humidity – you can do your part to prevent this from happening in your new home!

How to Install a Prehung Door with the CHEATAH Door Level

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Take a quick look through our instructions below

We’ve tried to take the confusion out of installing a prehung door.  Click through our instructions below to see how the CHEATAH door level can help with your next installation.   If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us!

  • Step 1. Place the Prehung Unit Into the RO and Open the Door Past 90°.
    Step 1. Place the Prehung Unit Into the RO and Open the Door Past 90°.

    The door slab will act like a kickstand to prop the frame up.

  • Step 1 Continued
    Step 1 Continued

    Next, place the 3 parts labeled H at each door hinge and put Part T onto the top of the door. Place each Part S on the strike side of the door directly across from each Part H. The Orange Spacer should ALWAYS be on the hinge-pin side of the door.

  • Step 2. Line the Door Frame Up with the Rough Opening
    Step 2. Line the Door Frame Up with the Rough Opening

    WITH THE DOOR OPEN, pull the frame back into the RO. Use the levels on Parts H and T to ensure the door is LEVEL and PLUMB before fastening.

  • Step 2 Continued
    Step 2 Continued

    START AT THE TOP and work your way down the door – shimming and fastening at each hinge location. Take great care at this point that ALL levels read correctly before moving to next step. This is CRUCIAL to achieve an accurate install.

  • PRO TIP 1 - Shimming the Hinge Side

    Shim with the thick portion facing the hinge-pin. This prevents the door from binding when shut. Also, use the long hinge screws provided with the door hinges NOW to prevent over-tightenting them later.

  • Step 3. GENTLY Pull the Door Slab Shut.
    Step 3. GENTLY Pull the Door Slab Shut.

    The parts’ built-in shim pads will help guide the door into the frame. Next, insert shims snugly above Part T. All leveling parts are designed to act as spacers between the door and the jamb.

  • Step 3 Pictures Continued
    Step 3 Pictures Continued

    Fasten through the jamb when ready. Notice how you can easily slide Part T along the top of the door allowing you to place shims where needed.

  • Step 4. Shim the Remaining Locations
    Step 4. Shim the Remaining Locations

    WITH THE DOOR SHUT, start at the top and shim at the 3 remaining parts S until the shims feel snug. The shim pads will help keep you from putting your shims in too far. When you’re ready, fasten through the jamb at each part. Again, the parts can slide up and down if needed.

  • Pro Tip 2 - What Fasteners to Use
    Pro Tip 2 - What Fasteners to Use

    It’s a good idea to only use nails as a secondary fastener. Your prehung door carries too much weight. Screws are recommended to fasten the hinge-pin side of the door frame. Nails on thier own will cause the door to sag and operate improperly.

  • Step 5. Remove the Parts for Next Time
    Step 5. Remove the Parts for Next Time

    Open the door and remove all CHEATAH parts. Parts H and S are designed to fit compactly together inside of Part T. Be sure to keep your tool ready for its next use inside the provided micro-carrying bag!

  • The CHEATAH Door Level Works On:
    The CHEATAH Door Level Works On:

    Commercial and Residential doors – Single or Double doors – BOTH Inswing and Outswing doors – Doors with Sidelights or Transoms – Doors with Applied Casing – even Split Jamb doors!

CHEATAH door levels are made in the USA and carry a 100 day satisfaction guarantee.  Be sure to read the other door installation related articles in our Door Installation 101 section.

Get yours today!

Get yours today!

$39.95 – Ships with USPS tracking in 1-2 business days.

Buy Now

100 Day Guarantee

100 Day Guarantee

  • 100% Satisfaction
  • 100% Replacement
  • 100 Days
Made in the USA

Made in the USA

  • Manufactured & Assembled
  • Locally Sourced Materials
  • Made in Northern, MN

Measure a Door

How to Measure a Prehung Door

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Do You Know How To Measure a Prehung Door?

We’ll go over everything you need to measure on your next replacement project.

In this article, we want to go over the different ways you can measure a prehung door. Depending on the application, you’ll need to know how and what to measure so you can order the correct replacement door from the Lumberyard.

How To Measure a Prehung Door Interior

Prehung Door Measurement Terms:

Door Handing –

First, if you’re planning to measure a prehung door yourself, you’ll need to know how to tell what the “handing” or “swing” of the door is. The best way we’ve found is to put your nose to the hinge pins, (with the door shut) and see which of your hands can grab the door handle. Since the hinge pins are only visible from one side of the door (interior or exterior,) it allows for a fool-proof way of determining swing. The door in the picture would be called a LH inswing.

Note: Exterior doors can also be specified as inswing or outswing – essentially, does the door swing into the room or out to the exterior?

Slab Size –

Next, the most common way to measure a prehung door is to call out the measurements of the door slab only (translated into lineal feet.) Look at the door in the example picture above – the Blue measurements are the door slab size. This door would be called out as a 3068 (3’ x 6’8”) when ordering a new prehung unit for replacement.

Rough Opening (RO) –

Another industry standard is to remove the interior or exterior casing and measure the 2×4 stud framing or “Rough Opening” (RO). Back to our example picture – the Orange measurements show the RO of this door at 39” x 82 ½”. (Industry standard is to call out the width before the height when ordering a door or window.)

Frame Size –

Some manufacturers allow you to order a door by “Frame Size” or the outside measurement of the door jamb assembly. This allows for an exact fit when trying to save interior and exterior casings. The Red measurements show the door in the example has a frame size of 38” x 82”.

How To Measure a Prehung Door Exterior

Outside Measurement of Exterior Casing (OSM) –

Finally, if you’re trying to replace an exterior door and save the existing siding, you’ll want to measure by what’s called the “Outside Measurement of Exterior Casing (OSM). You’ll also need to measure and specify the width of the existing Brickmolding or casing. This will give you an exact replacement that fits into the existing siding and RO. The Green measurements above show this example door has an OSM of 41” x 83 ½” with 2” Brickmolding.

These terms are hard to differentiate at first, but by gaining a good understanding of how to properly measure your next door – you can avoid costly mistakes caused by miss-orders.

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The Door Is Installed Level & Plumb, but it still doesn’t work!

Written by JENTRA on . Posted in Doors 101. Leave a Comment

Has this ever happened to you?

We Can Help!

You’ve tried to do everything right, taking your time to find level & plumb perfectly.  Even shimming properly at each hinge location, but no matter what you try – the door frame will not line up correctly with the slab.  (learn some shimming tricks here)

Let’s trouble shoot some of the possible causes below:

1.  The door slab is level, but the sill is not

This is one of the most common issues when you’re facing the problem the door being installed level & plumb, but it still doesn’t work.  Look at the picture below to get a better idea of what’s going on here. 

picture-correct-door-sill-vs-an-incorrect-door-sill

A level sill is the foundation for a good door installation

As you can see, even if the door is level & plumb – if the sill isn’t, you will have a hard time getting your reveals to line up correctly.  (learn more about getting a level sill here)

2.  The door’s frame legs are not installed true with one another

Here is a picture of another trouble-spot that we’ve seen on job-sites.

Doors 101 - True

Note how the door legs don’t align with one another

It is possible to have a door slab level & plumb and one side of the door frame level & plumb. But if the other side of the door frame isn’t true with its partner – the door slab can appear warped because it will pop-out from the frame in one corner.  (you can learn more about what installing a door true means here)

3.  One of the door’s components was manufactured incorrectly

Even though it’s rare and door manufacturer’s try very hard to produce every unit correctly, it is possible for a part to be made incorrectly and find its way into the field.  Fortunately, you can check that your door was made correctly by measuring both frame legs to make sure they match and both head and sill to make sure you have a matching pair.  As for the spacing between the door and frame (usually called the reveal) it is recommended that there is at least 1/8” on both the Strike and Head sides of the door and 3/32″ on the hinge side of the door.  We’ve put together a diagram below to help explain this.

Proper reveals are required to maintain Energy STAR® ratings on exterior doors

4.  The door slab is warped

Again, this is rare for a new door. But it is possible for the door slab to warp before it has been installed.  If this has happened, the door will pop-out from the frame in one corner as mentioned above. It will also not match with its frame.  An easy way to test for this is to use a string pulled tight from the top of the bottom of the door corners. (as shown in the picture below) If the gap is larger than ⅜” from the string to the door, it is warped.

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Doors 101 - Level

Level Plumb Square & True. What do they Mean?

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What do they really mean?

Our clear-cut explanation of Level Plumb Square & True.

We hear these words used all the time, but have you ever taken the time to really think about what they mean?  Equally important, these terms can have a major impact on your next door or window installation.  Take a read below to make sure your fenestration terminology is up to par.

Doors 101 - Level

1.  LEVEL

The best way to describe LEVEL is to imagine a straight line that is perfectly horizontal.  Take a look at the picture above, the dotted green line represents LEVEL.  If a door or window is installed out of LEVEL, it will tend to rub on the jamb and it will be hard to get the reveal (spacing between the door and frame) to line up.  If the reveals don’t line up, the sash will not seat up properly with the weather-strip seals.  As a result, you risk losing the Energy STAR rating your door or window came with.

Doors 101 - Plumb

2.  PLUMB

To visualize what PLUMB represents, look at the dashed green line above.  PLUMB is the term used to refer to a perfectly vertical line, thus why the clever tool used to find PLUMB is called a plumb-bob.  If a door or window is installed out of PLUMB, it will cause a host of issues.  Such as:  sagging open in the corner, unwanted opening or closing doors, and binding during operating.

Doors 101 - Square

3. SQUARE

The definition of SQUARE is a 90 degree corner.  A speed square, framing square, and T squares are all good examples of tools used to find SQUARE on a jobsite.  Installing a door or window SQUARE involves being both LEVEL & PLUMB at the same time.  This is important to prevent: binding during operation, springing open on the corners and again to insure proper sealing between the sash and frame.  Take a look above for a visual explanation of SQUARE.

Doors 101 - True

4. TRUE

By far, the most forgotten term of a door installation.  TRUE represents being SQUARE on both the LEVEL & PLUMB axis at the same time on all sides of the unit being installed.  The picture above describes TRUE.  A door or window can be installed perfectly LEVEL, PLUMB & SQUARE on one side, but if the other side’s aren’t LEVEL, PLUMB & SQUARE, the unit will not be TRUE and will create many of the problems mentioned above.

These terms are hard to differentiate at first, but by gaining a good understanding of LEVEL, PLUMB, SQUARE & TRUE you are sure to get better results out of your next installation.

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5 Cool Tools that can help with your next Door Installation

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you might want to see these.

Our pick of 5 cool tools to help with your next door installation.

Below are 5 of the most ingenious tools we’ve seen when it comes to door installation. Take a quick look below to see if you could use any of these!

5 Cool Tools For Door Installation - Winbag

 

#1. Winbag™ USA

First on our list of cool tools, The Winbag acts as a reusable, inflatable shim. You simply insert it in-between the components you wish to shim and then as Arnold would say, you “Pump it Up!” The Winbag has an impressive shimming range from 3/32″ – 2″ and can lift up to 300lbs. Retailing for around $20, we think this is a must have for any handyman’s tool bag. Learn more at Winbag™ USA.

 

5 Cool Tools For Door Installation - Vacuum Cup

 

 

#2. Heavy Duty Vacuum Cups

These are great for getting a grip on heavy door slabs that would otherwise be difficult to handle. Basically a strong suction cup with a handle, these clever cups come in 8″ – 10″ sizes and can lift from 100lbs all the way up to 300lbs securely. Depending on what you want to spend, you can find a good selection of vacuum cups ranging from $40 up to $100 at WGS Online.

 

5 Cool Tools For Door Installation - Hinge Tweaker

 

#3. The Hinge Tweaker™

Over time, heavy doors tend to sag and need some adjusting, this company has come up with a unique solution that almost anyone can tackle. By “tweaking” the hinges back and forth, you can easily adjust them back to their original position. Your commercial doors will thank you and for less than $85 you can get them swinging like brand new! Learn more about this cool tool at the Hinge Tweaker™ website.

 

5 Cool Tools For Door Installation - CHEATAH door level

 

#4. CHEATAH™ door level

Another cool tool, the CHEATAH door level helps anyone easily install a prehung door.  The CHEATAH can help by showing Level & Plumb simultaneously.  Plus the built-in SHIMPADS™ help to create perfect reveals between the door and frame. This results in improved installation and function of doors, resulting in fewer warranty callbacks.  You can buy the CHEATAH™ door level here.

 

5 Cool Tools For Door Installation - Trim Guage

 

#5. Trim Gauge™

For those of us who are perfectionists, the Trim Gauge can be a best friend when it comes to getting the perfect reveal on your next trim installation. Designed to set the spacing between the trim and the door frame, for less than $30 you can keep all of your trim jobs spot on. Get yours at the Trim Guage™ website

 

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How Important is a Level Door Sill?

Written by JENTRA on . Posted in Doors 101. 1 Comment

it’s not that big of a deal… is it?

Let’s Take a Look at Why a Level Door Sill is So Important.

It’s a Big Deal…

This is a question that most people don’t think about before beginning a door installation, but it might be the most important step to take. Installing a door with a level door sill is like building a house on a level foundation, you have to start right to end right.

picture-correct-door-sill-vs-an-incorrect-door-sill

As you can see in the picture above, if you don’t start with a level sill, it’s practically impossible to end up with a good result to your door installation. The sill is the door’s foundation, if it is out of level; the problems compound over the height of the door and become much more difficult to troubleshoot.

A Level Foundation is the Key Building Block to Any Structure.

Now that we know we need a level sill, it’s easy right?  Well in the real world, you’ll find most construction sites don’t offer a perfectly level sill area in the rough framing.  In fact, it’s very uncommon to find a perfect RO (rough opening) with a perfect sill. So what do you do?  You fix it!

Take the time

It’s important to use a straight edge level long enough to run the entire length of the door sill to make sure that the entire span is level and without dips or rises. A dip or a rise in the sill must be fixed before beginning the door installation.

One of the best methods we’ve come across to fix a dip or a rise in the door sill is to use strips of Ice and Water shield (found on most jobsites as a roofing underlayment) or asphalt shingles to build up the rough framing in order to create a level door sill.  Depending on the thickness you need, the strips are easy to cut and stay nicely in place where you need them during the door’s installation and afterwards.

Fix Any Problems Before Moving Forward with Installation!

By taking the time to complete this small step, you will find that many common door installation problems disappear when you start with a level sill!

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The Ups and Downs of a Door Shim

Written by JENTRA on . Posted in Doors 101.

a door shim has a top?

The Ups and Downs of a Door Shim

The pitch of the door shim is important!

Did you know that door shims have a top and a bottom, and that if you put them in the wrong way they don’t work? Let’s take a look at this.

A Shim Has A Taper for a Reason

To start, we’ll call the thicker portion of the shim the top and the thinner end the bottom.  The taper this creates is designed not only to help make up various gaps when combined with another shim, but it also sets the “projection” of the door. Take a look at the picture below.

All bound up?

Have you ever tried to shut a door that feels like it is binding when you try to close it the last few inches? More than likely, this was caused by putting the shims in the wrong direction creating the bad projection and the door hinges to bind.

The Taper Helps the Door to Swing One Way or the Other

By correctly placing a shim at each hinge, you will help the door easily close all the way. It’s all about the top and bottom when it comes to a door shim.

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5 Mistakes You Might be Making Installing a Door

Written by JENTRA on . Posted in Doors 101.

we’ve been there too.

Our pick of the top 5 most common door installation mistakes

Below are 5 of the most common problems seen when it comes to installing a door. Take a look below to see if you’ve ever struggled with any of these!

1.  Hanging the door parallel to the wall, even if it is out of level 

If the wall is out of plumb, it’s hard to install a door correctly and it may tend to swing open or closed. If the wall is plumb but the door frame is not, the door frame may need to be adjusted to ensure an even reveal on each side of the door. If the walls on either side are not parallel, extra time may be needed during shimming to ensure the best results.

Don’t Expect Good Results if you Don’t Start Right.

2.  Using the wrong hinge screws or over-tightening them

The right screws, or 3 ½” screws, keep the door stable over time. Too small of screws can allow the door to migrate over time, which can cause it to rub or scrape on the floor or not shut at all. When the screws have been tightened improperly, the door will experience uneven tension and will eventually warp.

Go Slow and Steady.

3. Placing shims improperly or backwards

When installing a door, thick end of the shim should face the door’s hinge pin. This helps it swing shut properly. If the shims have been installed backwards, the door will begin to resist before it is completely shut. Putting door shims in backwards can also be a large contributing factor to a door that swings open or shut on it’s own. Read more about proper shimming techniques here: The Ups and Downs of a Door Shim.

Proper Shimming is Important.

4. Failing to check the reveals

As the industries top cause of warped doors, uneven reveals can cause significant long-term problems with a door. The reveals must be parallel to ensure proper operation and a long life for the door. If the reveals are uneven, the door will build up pressure over time and warp as the moisture level changes. If a door is hanging with even tension across all three hinges, it will operate properly for years to come.

EnergySTAR Ratings can be Voided by Improper Reveals.

5. Not starting with a level sill

As seen in the picture below, by starting without a level sill, it’s practically impossible to end up with a good result to your door installation.  The sill is the door’s foundation, if it is out of level; the problems compound over the height of the door and become much more difficult to troubleshoot. Read more about proper level sill here: How Important is a Level Sill?

Installing a door with a level sill is like building a house on a level foundation, start right to end right.

picture-correct-door-sill-vs-an-incorrect-door-sill

 

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